I get a strange feeling as I climb the hill toward Çukurcuma, the kind you get when you visit someone you haven’t seen in years or a distant relative that you know all about but have never met. As I walk along the streets of Istanbul’s antiques district, where chic cafés and cocktail bars draw a fashionable clientele, I imagine a love sick soul weaving his way between the backgammon players, with their heads bent intently over their boards, as he searches madly for the woman he loves.